So this is a big birthday year for me, as was last year for my friend A so we decided to celebrate with a three day/2 night stay on Galiano Island. A did all the planning, finding great accommodation, researching sailing times and procuring maps.
The cabin that we stayed at is called Sticks and Stones, the owners are Rocky and Ralph who have lived here since 1998. The kitchen is fully appointed and the owners shared a wealth of information that we took full advantage of.
A picked me up at 8am and we headed for the ferry. The weather was cool but mostly sunny. Coincidentally we ran into a mutual friend onboard, her destination was Pender Island, one stop before ours. The time passed quickly as the three of us quickly caught up with each other over cups of tea and coffee.
On arrival we made a beeline for a hike we had done previously and one that the island is famous for. When one takes the ferry from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen one passes the impressive Bluffs while sailing through Active Pass. The view from up there is one of the most beautiful that I have ever seen. We were above the soaring eagles and the turkey vultures. Our plan was to hike along the bluffs as far as a beach but the weather seemed to be turning so we did as well.
An interesting detour off that hike is to the Japanese Kiln site. Some residents of Japanese heritage made a living by making charcoal in their handmade kilns prior to WW2.
From the top of the Bluffs, I am not sure why I did not take a better photo, this does not do it justice.
As we walked through the forest back to the car we spotted a few plots of these sweet native plants, they are Calypso orchids.
That golden light of sunset.
After checking into our cozy cabin we drove to Hummingbird Pub where we enjoyed vegetarian dinner.
Then off to Montague Harbour to walk the Gray Peninsula loop then we parked ourselves on a beach log and waited for the sunset. At one point we heard and then saw in the distance a loon. Not commonly seen in our area.
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Day 2 we took Ralph's advice, drove to the end of Bodega Beach Rd where we parked and furtively skirted around all the No Trespassing Signs for a 45 minute walk along a well maintained paved road that is now only used for the few locals that live there. Our destination was Dionisio Point Provincial Park, located at the very northern tip of the 27.5 km long island. In the end it seems we (especially me) got confused with the posted map so we actually missed "the best Beach" on the island. ..but what we saw was well worth the walk in. The rock formations were so interesting, apparently the holes left by eroded away sandstone are called Tofanis. We stayed and enjoyed the view, the tide pools and the eagles then walked down the path alongside the northeast coast seeing many small rock islands loaded with seals and I believe by the grunts we heard, a few sea lions as well?
The seals basking in the cool sunshine.
Halfway along we stopped on a sheltered bit of beach to enjoy our packed lunch.
We were so grateful for our host's information. It appears that not many visitors get to see this area. It is beautifully maintained and severely underused due to the road being gated. There is also a campsite there which was totally empty.
Our next destination was a one hour loop walk through lovely forested land to Pebble Beach and Cable Bay. Even though it was lovely I neglected to take photos there.
Bodega Ridge
Our next stop was backtracking to Bodega Ridge Provincial Park. We discovered that it was warmer on the west side of the island so off with the gortex, into the forest, then a gorgeous walk along the ridge, again we were above the eagles and the turkey vultures.
The views were stunning with narrow Wallace Island in the foreground and the north end of Salt Spring Island beyond that. We enjoyed the scenic hiking and feeling the warm sun on our backs. This is in April so it is mostly fairly cool.
Our final exploration of the day was Retreat Cove where there are fantastic erosions. We had to slide down an incline on the left hand side of the government wharf and edge our way along the shore for about 50 feet and then we were rewarded by these other worldly sites.
To add to the beauty there was a profusion of wildflowers and plants.
Yes, a starfish, so many of them died 2 years ago during "The Heat Dome" so it was a pleasure to see this healthy looking specimen.
Starving, we returned to Hummingbird Pub for dinner then an early night as we had walked all perfect day long. Two happy hikers.
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Day 3
After a leisurely breakfast we made our lunches and packed up for our final day. The first destination was the bakery at Sturdies Bay where we picked up goodies and an unhealthy dinner for later. Being off season so many restaurants are closed so we just wanted to ensure we would have something to eat.
Our first hike was to Mt Galiano on the south end. The photo above shows a Van/Vic ferry just exiting Active Pass with Mayne Island to its left and the very southern tip of SaltSpring Island upper right. At this point the weather was misty .. or something ... anyways things were not so crystal clear as one would expect. But again it was lovely and warm here on the leeside.
This eagle was only about 30 feet from me. Luckily I also caught a turkey vulture soaring by.
Lunch break after the one hour uphill hike. It got warm enough to take off my boots and zip down to shorts.
Looking north.
Adjoining Mt Galiano Park is Collinson Point Provincial Park so we walked that as well. Our host had mentioned that the resident orcas do a 2 day loop and pass by this point every second day. Unfortunately they did not pass when we were there.
So more uphill but another beautiful and warm rest stop along the way.
We detoured to the road near the end of this hike and went to visit Galiano Cemetery which is right on the waterfront at the western entrance to Active Pass. We saw more seals there and many interesting graves which make us consider the briefness of life and the multitude of histories buried along with the bodies.
One never knows how busy it will be at the ferry terminal but as it turns out an April Tuesday evening is very quiet. We enjoyed our dinners on the beach adjacent to the terminal.
A beautiful sail home. Here is Mt Baker from Sturdies Bay.
After the car ride home I felt very stiff from three full days of hiking and exploring this beautiful island, I am no longer so used to so much activity.
We were impressed by the amount of land on Galiano Island that is still forested. Mind you it is second or even third growth but we did not see any clear cuts which make us happy. There is a water shortage on the island, so it cannot support many residents .. or tourists for that matter. One is encouraged to conserve water as much as possible and to take your garbage home as there dump can only support so much as well.
We thoroughly enjoyed out stay here and plan on returning. There are so many more hikes to discover!
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A few days later ...
A and I hiked up Mill Hill, a short bike ride from our homes. We saw many wildflowers and luckily had a relatively close encounter with a couple of eagles. Wow.
The native camas is blooming all over the city.
This was such a treat to spend about 1/2 hour with these magnificent raptors.
I am certainly counting my blessings as I enter into my 8th decade with good health and the ability to hike the many beautiful destinations surrounding my city.
