Letting It All Hang Out

I am in the small village of Santa Marta de Tera. There is no wifi and my data is seemingly too weak to download photos.

So mainly words today.

Random thoughts

Two days ago I was walking on my own in the afternoon. The scenery was gorgeous and I had lots of energy but I decided to play some tunes. So I am listening to Barenaked Ladies singing the awesome tune Million Dollars, loving their wit and the song, dancing down the road and singing away. Such a fun time, loving where I was and how strong I am feeling. Pure joy. And ... If I had a million dollars? I hope that I would be right where I am, in Spain, walking my camino! How fortunate am I?!

You know all those photos in the early days of my camino of the bushes full of white flowers?

 Well they are here as well, although not yet in bloom.

Wild thyme grows everywhere here. I put some in the pocket where I keep my handkerchief. Voila, my handkerchief smells wonderful.

Sometimes ... It is the small things.

When Mom and Dad took us to Europe in 1970 I had loved the cuckoo clocks in Switzerland and I purchased one. Well here in Spain we hear the real things ... er I mean the real birds. I was walking with Martina of Germany and told her about that memory. She says the "cuckoo" birds are now extinct in Germany. That was upsetting news.

Oh and NEWS ... I find my only enjoyable way of keeping up with Canadian and world news is by listening to podcasts of Because News..... So not depressing with Gavin Crawford's (& team) take on the world.

So today. It was about 7 degrees when we started out this morning so we donned all of our layers. It soon warmed up and was another perfect day.... not too hot with a bit of a breeze. Danielle was having a rough time and was going at a slow pace, we were worried about getting one of the 12 available beds here at our destination so I powered forward. At one point there was a choice of route, one direction had a coffee shop which is the way most pilgrims go. I am perfectly happy, no I prefer, sitting on the grass, drinking my water and enjoying the food in my pack so I chose option two. It was probably a combination of the route and not stopping for coffee but I arrived 3rd at the albergue. Two Spanish men arrived after me and demanded where did I come from. I have a feeling they did not believe me when I answered that I just walked quickly. Anyways 

.. Yay

We did get beds and Danielle actually did super, she began feeling better as the day went on

But the Albergue was full by 1:30.

Back to the events of today

This photo took over 1 hour to load. I just don't have that kind of time.

Anyways, this morning; hungry pilgrims waiting at the bar for their tostadas y cafe con leche.

 Hurray, the bar has wifi .... quel surprise!
Clay from Louisiana & Wim both have chosen to wear their jackets on backwards. Their (our) packs keep the back warm and it is easier to take the jacket off without taking off the backpack. I think I will stick to the traditional manner of jacket wearing.

Linda, Wim's daughter caught up with us. They are walking a longer stage today so we may not see them again. Buen Camino.

(bonus tho ... that makes 5 less people that are fighting for those 12 beds.)

 Letting it all hang out. When your laundry is not quite dry in the morning, just pin it to your pack and it will dry as you walk. Magic

 Yikes those are the mountains that we will be tackling in a few days time.

The Village of Bercianos de Valverde

This is such a typical view as one enters a village, quiet, no one around, it looks so closed off. If by chance you get a glimpse inside one of the homes, they are often full of light and flowers. The homes extend quite far back and most often have a lovely, private courtyard, hence the light.

This town had no shops but I just happened to catch the bread van. The locals come running, the bread lady had a small broom which she used to sweep off excess flour.

 Once Danielle arrived at the albergue the first order of business was to head to the bar for our midday meal. There we found Annie from Luxembourg ( in the hat, I have seen her off and on since April 22), Martina from Germany and Patrick from France. We had a fun lunch and spoke mainly French.

 The church here has a wonderful history, more on that in a bit.

 At the modern albergue, Martina enjoys a massage from Patrick (shoulders get sore carrying our heavy backpacks)  while fellow German Heidi looks on. Note all the laundry in the background. When one only has 2 or 3 shirts it is necessary to wash clothes often. When there is sunshine and a clothesline we are all washing.

 The interior of the Romanesque church, the construction of which started around 1075 and was completed perhaps 150 years later.

 This is the oldest known European image of the original pilgrim Santiago.
Danielle has just given me a quick history lesson. Santiago aka St Jacques aka St James wandered Europe preaching Christianity. He was 1 of 12 apostles of Jesus Christ. Rome eventually brought him back to Rome and punished him by beheading. The revered head of Santiago was brought back to Santiago de Compostela (my destination) where pilgrims can line up to pay their respects.

The outside of the church, the 2 gatekeepers appear to be of a similar vintage as Santiago.

I am enjoying this attractive village with its religious history. The towns and the farms in this region seem to be faring better than the ones further south.

Whew that's a wrap.

A XRoad

I have now, as of yesterday, finished walking The Via de la Plata. Our choices are a right fork to Astorga which joins the busy Camino Frances or the left fork to follow the Camino Sanabres.
Left it is.

Many readers ask me how my feet are faring.
I thank my feet every day. ...And my legs. So many people my age suffer from mobility issues, including of course my DH. So this makes me doubly aware of my good fortune. Knock on wood I have not yet suffered from blisters or even my usual heel pain. I am very fortunate.

The benefit of a 7am start is a beautiful sunrise.

Immediately the terrain was beautifully picturesque

                           The River Esla
We took a wrong turn but a happy one to see this lovely view.

                           Puente Quintos

Immediately after the bridge the camino took a left and followed the shoreline on a rough rocky path. I was pleased as so far the camino has been on country roads, this was more like what I am used to. The others did not share my enthusiasm.

 Lucky for the others the way became a tame path.

                          Pretty Surprise

Time for breakfast. We had been planning on eating breakfast at the restaurant but once we got up at 6am we did not feel like waiting around until 7:30 when the bar opened. We did not have much food.

Looking south along the Rio Esla 

 Today was a favourite of mine, a bit of hiking (as opposed to walking), beautiful scenery, friendly locals and a perfect temperature with a soft breeze.

 Lunch stop. I am enjoying a delicious tomato.

Gabi and Heidi from Germany stopped to chat on their way past.

The dog coming to tell me to get out of the way. I was right in their path.

Entering our destination of Tabara

26 kilometers later ** Tabara

A very nice town.

Gabi getting a needed neck massage from Nederlander Wim at the bar. 75 year old Wim and his daughter Linda are walking their 5th camino together.

The countries represented around our table are Sweden, England, Germany, Nederland, France and Canada. I suggest anyone wanting to run for political office should first walk a camino.

We are concerned about getting a bed tomorrow as there are only 12 and no reservations. We are some of the slowest walkers. Hopefully some of the fellows will want to walk further along. Fingers crossed.

3 Interesting Encounters

 Yes the sun is shining but the wind is bitterly cold. It was a headwind all day.

 Below is supposedly a reservoir. It cannot be good news that it is very very low in the month of May.
The route today was well signed.

 We hadn't seen lavender for a few days.

Encounter number 1
A large flock of sheep led by 1 man
No dog
(No photo)
They turned as a unit into a field ahead of us.
All very docile and obedient.
This got me thinking
About all the pilgrims all in a line obediently following arrows to Santiago.
Hmmmm!?

But lots of poppies
And euphorbia (no photo)

Surprise, an unexpected ruin in the distance.

Encounter number 2
I had turned off the camino (no sheep am I!) when a pilgrim came from the other direction. He is a permanent pilgrim whose home base is in Valencia. He has no home, everything he owns is in his backpack. He has just walked from Valencia to Santiago and is now on his return journey. From Valencia his plan is to continue on to Rome and then Jerusalem. His face was very weathered looking and he looked lean and strong. Mom was asking about the other pilgrims ... so Mom he is one example of many. More to come about my fellow pilgrims. It seems like our group will be walking together for a bit .. just how the upcoming stages are distance wise.

Castrotorafe, founded in 1127 and populated for about 100 years.

Encounter number 3

In the Village of Fontanillas de Castro, while looking for the bar for coffees, we happened on a brand new Albergue. The volunteer hospitalero kindly invited us in, made coffee for Daniel and served me juice. We played with his highly intelligent and funloving border collie puppy. He told us that his parents brought him up on the caminos so he is happy to provide hospitality to pilgrims. All on his own he makes a dinner and a "breakfast", cleans, launders the towels, drives 40 kms each way for groceries ... he is a busy guy. He somehow finds time for his art and music. Puppy loves to play piano as well.

There are poppies everywhere.

It was a bed race today. I was extremely happy to get an upper bunk. Danielle was a few minutes behind me, walking with 4 Germans. They got the last beds and that was at about 1:30! We are all feeling frustrated that we need to run to the next town for a bed, this is why we are walking The Via de la Plata and not the Camino Frances .... what we are all trying to avoid.

I emailed Geert from Belguim who is 2 days ahead. They are having the same issue. It seems I have discovered the camino the same year as the rest of the world.

We registered for our bed at a bar. There are always signs to the Albergue, today they pointed to the bar. Our credential is stamoed and our passport information noted. Today we were given a paper pillow slip and bottom sheet. Across and down the street to the actual Albergue where I see the younger and faster pilgrims who have claimed the bottom bunks (nc).
I make my bed to claim it and then with Danielle head back to the bar, where, for only a 1 hour window a pilgrim lunch is served.

It is now 4 pm and there is a rowdy/angry game of cards happening (still in the bar) by 7 local men.

Again there is no wifi in the albergue, just at the bar. Good marketing. (nc)

Time for a shower and a walk around town.

Covert photo

I will publish this now as I may not get back to the bar later.

Zen of Walking

You heft on your pack. Somedays it is heavier than others depending on the amount of food and water, or sometimes it just feels heavier for no reason. You know those kind of days?!
As you start walking you adjust the straps making sure some of the weight is supported by the hips. Some days the adjustments take a good 15 minutes. Finally the pack settles into that familiar, comfortable weight.
Now you lengthen your walking poles and slide into that easy rhythm trying not to grip too tightly.

Your feet will then eventually get into a repetitive, comfortable stride. Some days it takes longer.

Then the brain ... this is the difficult part for me. ...What is with these crazy loops that repeat, the concerns, the whatifs? OK Debbie, time to let all that go. Look around at the scenery (doesn't work for most road/highway walking!), listen to the birds, the frogs, watch the ants at your feet, feel the perfect warmth of the sun. My goal is to be in the moment, to really see and experience my now.
The stride soon becomes effortless, the soul experiences bliss.

Then you get a rock in your shoe or your mind wanders or or or

But that means
You begin the process over again.
I Love to Walk!

Throughout all this it is extremely important to look out for the yellow directional arrows. I would rather not get lost.

Danielle washing up her breakfast dishes. It was fortunate that we decided to eat the provided breakfast at the Albergue as nothing was open as we walked out of town.

May 1st is Labour Day in Spain and the month of May is also for The Virgen Mary. We ran into this procession as we passed through the Plaza Mayor this morning.

377 Kilometres to go. That sounds about right.

Lonny walked with us to the northern outskirts of Zamora. Sad goodbyes.

A short foot break.

The village of Montamarta in the distance.

A strawberry break.

There are only 20 beds in this Albergue. We were fortunate to arrive in time for a (upper) bed. There is a restaurant on the highway here in Montamarta which is where we went for the mid afternoon meal. Ensalada mixta for me. It is 3pm and since there is no wifi at the albergue (but there is at the restaurant) I will publish today's blog now.

Ok 2 more photos.

At the north end of town. The Via de la Plata appears to follow the ridge to the left of the church.

The above church is home to the town cemetery.