Father Blas

 After "breakfast" we set out in pouring rain and 3 degree temperature. Thankfully the route was slighly uphill so we generated some heat. Since I was wearing most of my clothes my pack felt nice and light. I had slipped my socked feet into plastic bags as my boots (& everyone else's boots) were still wet. Lonny and I were very thankful that we had walked the extra 13 kms yesterday as today's conditions were even worse.

 Through the mist you can see the snow low on the mountain in the distance.

This is one of the intact Roman mileage markers mentioned yesterday.

 Very grateful we had a small bridge to cross here and did not need to wade through this puddle. The track was a mess of puddles so later in the day we actually chose to walk on a quiet road.

 After 1 hour of beautiful but wet terrain we happened upon a bar, there we stopped for fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and camino comradery. Most of the gang had left by the time I took the above photo.

Danielle from Ottawa and Lonny from Utrecht. Only 3€ for a large oj and a coffee.

Lonny and I ready to again face the elements.

Today is a Two Bar Day. We stopped after only 1 more hour to dry out and take some more refreshment. The rain gear was cold and wet to put back on.

Usually there are no towns therefore no bars on the way to stop at so we took advantage today.

                      Tea Verde for me

                 I love the stone fence posts.

The last 2 hours the wind picked up, thankfully it was a tail wind but it was so strong that it kept blowing my poncho up and over my head. Thankfully I had 2 walking amigas to help sort me out.

We were thankful to arrive, the wind increasing in intensity so that it was blowing us off balance. The rain had eased up during the final hour.

Here at Fuenterroble de Salvatierra we are staying at the religious albergue. It is run by a man very famous on the Via de la Plata, Father Don Blas. We have not yet met him but are told that we will. A kindly, gentle monk signed us in (he did not want his photo taken) and gave us a smaller dorm room with just 6 beds. So far our other 2 roommates are 2 young German women. We know most of our fellow pilgrims as we have been travelling together for the past few days and we all get on well.

At the religious albergues each pilgrim is asked their reason for walking. I will not divulge the reasons that Lonny and Danielle gave but we were all crying from intense emotions. When it came to me, I turned to my 2 new friends and realized that my reason was to make the friendship of wonderful strong women such as them. More crying and hugging. I make light but it felt very transformational. On the camino (much like in a quilters guild) one feels safe and accepted and valued. This is a beautiful revelation for me. I have always been a bit of a loner but here while I still value my alone time, I also feel safe enough to open myself up to others and to expose my feelings and vulnerability. I am also hearing others as they express themselves to me. This is a deep and profound connection.
Danielle later also brought up the point that on the camino are people from every country, we all communicate with kindness and respect. Perhaps completing a camino should be a prerequisite for running for political office, running a company or even having children. (if I knew then what I know now!)

Since we were starving we braved the elements (wind and rain) to go to a restaurant nearby where a lovely couple served us a delicious 3 course pilgrim meal for 9.50€. The same French couple (rember creepy guy? No longer creepy!) joined us for food, laughs and deep conversation.

Later at 8pm we will be fed here at the religious albergue. Some days food is scarce, others it is in abundance.

Now I am sitting beside a fire surrounded by new friends listening to the storm outside.

Anne and Robert from Sydney Australia

           The cosy room in the albergue

The Padre in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra is famous in "pilgrim world". His parish is midway on The Via de la Plata and he has been instrumental in resurrecting this camino. Under his supervision both the church and the albergue were renovated.

He has a large presence and a gentle manner. We were lucky that he was available to give a benediction blessing service for the pilgrims. He talked about how we had left everything at home except for a few essentials, left a comfortable life of drinking beer in front of the television set to come to Spain to walk the camino. He said that all pilgrims are looking for something, looking for a way to better their lives or searching for answers. He sang as well, his lovely voice resonating in the church. As most of you know I am not part of an organised religion, nature is my chosen church but I felt deep respect for the service and for what this great man has achieved. It was a moving ecperience for me as well as many of my fellow pilgrims.

We braved the freezing cold elements to run back to the albergue from the church snd eere immediately invited into the spacious dining hall for supper. Lentil soup was served first followed by pasta and then an orange for dessert. Much was made of a young Spanish couple that had chosen to walk the Via de la Plata on their honeymoon.

Soon it was bedtime and a 6am get up. We were sharing our 6 bed room with 2 young German women, Marion and Barbara. Unfortunately Marion had left her purse at the bar, of course it wasn't there when she realized and went back. Fortunately she admitted later, it was only money, she did not have her id in her purse.